We celebrated a milestone 15 years of marriage on the beautiful Amalfi Coast. Words cannot describe the beauty and calm as you look out into the vast tyrennhian sea and surround yourself in all things blue, white and lemon.
We decided to establish home base in Amalfi due to the walkability and itinerary we wanted to have – relaxation and food. Our hotel was amazing – Hotel Marina Riviera. It was not on the middle of town but a short walk to all the activity in Amalfi. We awakened every day to the bell ringing from the duomo and were lulled to sleep by the crashing of the waves from the sea.
Our itinerary :
Day 1:
After three days of walking through Rome, we booked a massage from Anatara spa, a short walk from the hotel. However the husband missed the elevator and we ended up walking extra steps to get to the hotel. Ooops. We had the Anatara Amalfi massages and I chose the lemon scent. It wasn’t the most amazing massage I’ve ever had but it was decadent, the facilities were beautiful, and I got rid of the pain in my hip and lower back so that’s a win!
We did some shopping in the town and stocked up on olive oils, limoncello, and wine.
Michelin dinner at La Caravella. We had incredible service as there were only five other tables the entire time we were there. This was the first Michelin star in Italy. My favorite was the lemon soufflé dessert which was discovered by accident when the mother of the current owner forgot the flour. We also tried many local delicacies of the region including eggplant chocolate, anchovies, lemon pasta, short pasta. Gluten free accommodations were available and just as delicious.
Day 2:
Amalfi coast boat tour by Positano boats. our guide Giuseppe was amazing- he navigated the boat into tight spaces for surreal photo opportunities. The boat picked us up right in town at the pier ( next to the ones used by the ferries) and gave us a good overview of the coast. We stopped for lunch and shopping in Positano for 2.5 hours. The vibe in Positano was a little more lively, bar heavy and “seen and be seen” which is not our current era but it was lovely to visit all the same. I had the best pasta with clams at La Pergola right across from the ocean for some great views and even better people watching.
Prosecco, limoncello, soft drinks, water, towels also included on the trip. Don’t forget your motion sickness medication if you are prone to sea sickness- we had two out of 12 that were not feeling well.
After a brief stop at the hotel to freshen up . We found a hidden gem for dinner at taverna buonvicino to experience more delicious food.
Day 3
We decided to venture to Ravello to experience a smaller town and go a little higher for some views. We took the Amico Shuttle – purchased tickets online the night before and met them at the meeting point ( again less than five minutes away on foot from the hotel) shuttle tickets were $10 one way or $15 RoundTrip . The ride ranged from 16-25 minutes. Pickup in Amalfi is on the hour and the return is on the half hour. We saw some people try and get in an earlier bus on the return and they were successful but it wasn’t busy this late in the season.
Villa Cimbrone
Entry was $10 Euro and we felt like we had the Villa mostly to ourselves. The infinity patio has breathtaking views of the coast. This would make a great backdrop for journaling or meditation as there are so many quiet spots to take in.
We enjoyed a spritz from the hidden snack bar under the infinity terrace with an amazing view and a great lunch at Villa Maria with more incredible views of that coastline and of course a fried pizza with anchovies- because when in Naples/Amalfi!
To cap off our last evening on the coast, we indulged in a gastronomic experience that you just have to experience for yourself at Positano Home Cooking. We took the ferry from Amalfi to Positano and climbed the 146 to our host Peter’s villa that overlooked the sea. We learned about food, wine, and more and made some new friends too. Best bluefin sashimi I have ever had. Words can’t explain the culinary journey but this is a must do if you are in the area.
That’s a wrap on our amalfi coast visit! We then headed back from Naples Centrale station to Rome via the high speed train. We arrived early enough to grab a quick bite in the train station and do some last minute shopping. Platform numbers don’t pop up on the large boards until about 15 minutes before departure. We booked luxurious business class seats so we could spread out. It was very easy to navigate and far less stressful that traveling in the US.
I hope to return one day! My two pieces of advice would be to do your research for where you want to stay. Each town on the Amalfi coast has its own charm and vibe. amalfi was wonderful for relaxation and an anniversary trip.
Some of the smaller towns don’t have restaurants or lodging during the off season. I highly recommend traveling here during the off-season as I found the crowd levels to be just right for what we were looking for. To me it was still busy but not uncomfortably crowded.
